FREE PATTERN: Sleeping Neko Atsume Kitty

I’m pleased to present to you today my pattern for a sleeping Neko Atsume kitty! I’ve made my kitty (and these instructions for) Marshmallow. However, you may want to try and adapt this pattern to suit the colour and patterns of other Neko Atsume kitties!

Materials:

• 3mm crochet hook
• White Yarn
• Grey Yarn
• Fibre Fill
• Grey Felt
• Black Embroidery Thread
• Hot Glue Gun

This pattern is in written in US terms

HEAD:

With white yarn.

Chain 6 (Foundation Chain)

R1: Starting with the second chain from the hook, Sc 4 into the back loops. Sc3 into next sc. Turn and Sc5 into front loops. (12sts)

After R1, your crochet should look like this:

R2: *1sc, inc* rep 6 times (18sts)

R3: *2sc, inc* rep 6 times (24sts)

R4-5: sc24 (24sts)

Embroider eyes to head.

R6: *2sc, dec* rep 6 times (18sts)

R7: *1sc, dec* rep 6 times (12sts)

Stuff head.

R8: dec 6 times (6sts)

Cast off, sew in end.

LEGS (Make 3):

With grey yarn

R1: sc5 into a magic ring

R2: inc, 1sc, inc, 1sc, inc (8sts).

R3-5: sc8

Cast off, sew in ends.

BODY:

With white yarn.

R1: We will be creating the body from the legs.

a) Starting from the back leg, sc4 across the front. Chain 5.

b) Sc4 across the front of each of the other 2 legs.

c) The last 17sts make up the ‘front’ of the body. Crochet 17sts along the ‘back’ of the body.

d) You will now have a round consisting of 34sts. It should look like this:

R2-3: sc34 (34sts)

R4: Dec, sc14, dec, sc16 (32sts)

R5: *2sc, dec* rep 8 times (24sts)

R6: sc24 (24sts)

R7: *2sc, dec* rep 6 times (18sts)

Stuff body.

R8: *1sc, dec* rep 6 times (12sts)

R9: Dec 6 times (6sts)

Cast off, sew in end. The body will look like this.

EARS (Make 2):

With grey yarn.

R1: sc3 into a magic ring

R2: 2sc in each sc (6sts)

Cast off. Leave tail for sewing.

TAIL:

With grey yarn.

R1: sc5 into a magic ring.

R2-10: sc5 (5sts)

Cast off. Leave tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY:

Sew ears to the face.

Sew the tail to the body.

Attach enough yarn at the back of the head so that you can sew it onto the body. I just attached the yarn with a knot.

Sew the head onto the body. I chose to sew the head at a slight angle so that the kitty looks more like it is curling into a ball.

Glue on the kitty’s muzzle (after embroidering its nose and mouth) to the face with a hot glue gun.

After this – you will have your very own Neko Atsume kitty!

I hope you like this pattern and enjoy making your own sleeping Neko Atsume kitty. Do you think you’ll make Marshmallow, or will you change the colours and make another kitty? Whichever kitty you make, please share your photos! I’d love to see them!

Marshmallow from Neko Atsume is Copyright of Hit-Point Games(2015). This pattern is an original pattern by Rachel of Drawn and Hooked (March 2016). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. You may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site, sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Thank you!

Advertisement

FREE PATTERN: Reindeer

I’m pleased to finally present to you my reindeer pattern! He was inspired by Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer. 🙂

I first started working on this pattern almost 2 years ago when I first started crocheting amigurumi. I sketched up his design on the back of a receipt and scribbled the pattern messily on the back of scrap paper as I fumbled through the stitches to make up a prototype. Whilst I finished my prototype, it never saw this blog as I soon realised I had crocheted him inside out (this was before I knew about the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet). Time passed and I questioned if I had even written out the pattern correctly. But fast forward to a few weeks ago when I finally sat down recently with my scraps of paper and tested the pattern – and here we have my reindeer!

I hope you like him!

 

MATERIALS:

– 3.75mm Hook

– 15mm Safety Eyes

– Dark Brown Yarn (Antlers and Hoofs)

– Chestnut Brown Yarn (Main Body)

– Tan Yarn (Muzzle)

– Red Yarn (Nose)

– Black Thread (Mouth)

– Fiber Fill

– Darning Needle

 

NOSE (With Red Yarn):

Chain 8 (Foundation Chain)

R1: Starting with the second chain from the hook, Sc 7 into the back loops. Turn and Sc7 into front loops. (14sts)

R2: 2sc in sc, sc5, 2sc in sc, 2sc in sc, sc5, 2sc in sc (18sts)

Cast off

 

MUZZLE (With Tan Yarn):

R1: Sc 6 into Magic Ring

R2: Sc 2 into each sc (12sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18sts)

R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (24sts)

R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (30sts)

R6: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (36sts)

R7-8: Sc 36

Cast Off

Sew mouth detail onto Muzzle. Sew Nose onto Muzzle. My reindeer’s mouth ended up a little lopsided – but I’m just going to say it gives him more character! 😉

 

 

HEAD (With Chestnut Brown Yarn):

R1: sc6 into Magic Ring

R2: Sc 2 into each sc (12sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18sts)

R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (24sts)

R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (30sts)

R6: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (36sts)

R7:  *Sc 5, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (42sts)

R8:  *Sc 6, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (48sts)

R9:  *Sc 7, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (54sts)

R10-21: Sc54

R22: *Sc 7, dec 1 sc*, rep 6 times (48sts)

R23: *Sc 6, dec 1 sc*, rep 6 times (42sts)

R24: *Sc 5, dec 1 sc*, rep 6 times (36sts)

Place Eyes. I placed my reindeer’s eyes between the 17th and 18th rows, approximately 16sts apart.

I recommend using the muzzle piece to work out which spacing work best for your reindeer.

R25: *Sc 4, dec 1 sc*, rep 6 times (30sts)

R26: *Sc 3, dec 1 sc*, rep 6 times (24sts)

R27: *Sc 2, dec 1 sc*, rep 6 times (18sts)

Stuff Head firmly.

R28: *Sc 1, dec 1 sc*, rep 6 times (12sts)

R29: Dec 6 times

Cast Off

Attach Muzzle onto the Head. I didn’t stuff the muzzle, but if you would like it to stick out more you can.

 

 

BODY (Chestnut Brown Yarn):

R1: sc6 into Magic Ring

R2: Sc 2 into each sc (12sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18sts)

R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (24sts)

R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (30sts)

R6-12: Sc 30

R13:  *Sc 3, dec 1 sc*, rep 6 times (24sts)

R14: Sc 24

Cast off

Attach Body to the Head.

 

LEGS (Dark Brown and Chestnut Brown Yarn) Make 4:

Starting with Dark Brown Yarn

R1: sc6 into Magic Ring

R2: Sc 2 into each sc (12sts)

R3: BLO Sc 12

R4: Sc 12

Switch to Chestnut Brown Yarn

R5-7: Sc 12

Stuff Leg

R8: Dec 6 times (6sts)

R9: Sc 6

Cast Off

Attach 2 Legs to the front of the reindeer and the remaining legs on either side. Your reindeer should be able to sit by itself.

 

TAIL (Chestnut Brown Yarn):

R1: sc6 into Magic Ring

R2: Sc 6

R3: *sc 2, 2sc in next sc*, rep 2 times (8sts)

R4: *sc2, dec 1*, rep 2 times (6sts)

Cast Off

Attach the tail to the back of the body.

EARS (Chestnut Brown Yarn) Make 2:

R1: 5 into Magic Ring

R2: sc 5

R3: *sc1, 2sc in next sc*, rep 2 times.  Sc1 (7sts)

R4: *sc1, 2sc in next sc*, rep 3 times. Sc1 (10sts)

R5-7: Sc 10

R8: *sc1, dec 1*, rep 3 times. Sc1 (7sts)

R9: Sc 7

Cast Off

 

ANTLERS (Dark Brown Yarn) Make 2 of each size:

Each Antler is made up of 3 parts, which I have labelled A, B and C for clarity.

PART A:

R1: Sc5 into Magic Ring

R2-14: Sc5

Cast Off

 

PART B:

R1: Sc5 into Magic Ring

R2-7: Sc5

Cast Off

 

PART C:

R1: Sc5 into Magic Ring

R2-4: Sc5

Cast Off

Assemble the Antler parts as shown in the photograph below. I found that they are stiff enough as they are to stand up on their own. I attached Part B and C to Part A at slight angles.

Attach Ears and Antlers to the Head.

Aaaaaaand there you have it! Your very own Reindeer! Will you be making a reindeer this Christmas? I would LOVE to photos of your reindeer if you do! Please email them to drawnandhooked@gmail.com

This pattern is an original pattern by Rachel of Drawn and Hooked (November 2014). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. You may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site, sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Thank you! 🙂

FREE PATTERN: Kangaroo

Last year I created an amigurumi Kangaroo to take with me while I traveled. I received a lovely email shortly after if I’d ever release the pattern for it. I promised I would, and finally (thanks for your patience Susana!) I’ve put together the pattern (after testing it by making another kangaroo!) and some instructions which I hope you’ll find useful.

Please let me know if you do end up making your own Kangaroo – I’d love to see it!

Materials:

–          Tan Yarn (for body)

–          Purple Yarn (for shirt)

–          9mm Safety Eyes

–          Fiber Fill

–          Darning Needle

–          Black Felt (for nose)

–          Black Thread (for mouth)

–          Scissors

–          3.75mm hook

 

MUZZLE

With tan yarn

R1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6sts)

R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18sts)

R4: 18sc

 

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Sew mouth features onto muzzle and glue/sew on nose

 

HEAD

With tan yarn

R1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6sts)

R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18sts)

R4: *Sc 2, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (24sts)

R5: *Sc 3, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (30sts)

R6-13: 30sc

R14: *Sc 3, dec 1*, rep 6 times (24sts)

R15: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times (18sts)

 

Insert 9mm safety eyes about half way of the kangaroo’s face. Keep in mind you need to leave space in between his eyes for his muzzle too.) Stuff head firmly.

 

R16: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 6 times (12sts)

R17: *Dec 1*, rep 6 times (6sts)

 

Fasten off and weave in end.

 

EARS (Make 2)

With tan yarn

R1: 5sc in Magic Ring (5sts)

R2: 5sc

R3: *Sc 1, 2sc in next sc*, rep 2 times. 1sc (7sts)

R4: *Sc 1, 2sc in next sc*, rep 3 times. 1sc (10sts)

R5-7: 10sc

R8: *Sc 1, dec 2*, rep 3 times. 1sc (7sts)

R9: 7sts

 

Fasten off and leave tail for sewing

 

BODY

With tan yarn

R1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6sts)

R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18sts)

R4: *Sc 2, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (24sts)

R5: 24sc

R6: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times (18sts)

 

Switch to purple yarn

 

R7-9: 18sc

 

Fasten off and leave long tail for sewing

 

TAIL

With tan yarn

R1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6sts)

R2-4: 6sc

R5: *Sc1, 2sc in next sc*, rep 3 times (9sts)

R6: *Sc 2, 2sc in next sc*, rep 3 times (12sts)

 

Fasten off and leave long tail for sewing

 

LEGS (Make 2 of each part)

With tan yarn

 

PART A

R1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6sts)

R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sts)

R3: 12sc

 

Fasten off and leave tail for sewing

 

PART B

R1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6sts)

R2-5: 6sc

 

Fasten off and leave tail for sewing

 

ARMS (Make 2)

With tan yarn

 

R1: 5sc in Magic Ring (5sts)

R2-4: 5sc

 

Fasten off and leave tail for sewing

 

ASSEMBLY

 

1)      Sew the body onto the head – this makes it easier to place remaing features.

2)      Sew onto the head the muzzle and ears.

3)      Sew the tail onto the back of the body

4)      Sew PART A of the leg to the body first. This makes placing PART B easier.

5)      Sew arms onto the front of the body, just beneath the join of the head.

6)      Done! You now have yourself a little kangaroo to take along with you for adventures! 🙂

 

This pattern is an original pattern by Rachel of Drawn and Hooked (March 2014). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. You may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site, sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Thank you! 

Free Pattern: Little Bowl of Pho

About 3 months ago (I can’t believe that time has gone by!) I posted about an amigurumi I made of a little bowl of pho (a Vietnamese noodle dish).  It was a pattern I created and though I didn’t initially plan to share it, because of the positive feedback it received – here’s the pattern!

Bowl of Pho Amigurumi Pattern

Materials

–          3.75mm hook

–          Grey yarn (for the bowl)

–          Tan yarn (for the soup)

–          White yarn (for the noodles)

–          Brown yarn (for the beef)

–          Green yarn (for the mint)

–          A pair of 9mm black safety eyes

–          Black yarn (to embroider the mouth)

–          Small amount of fiber fill

Even though I’m from Australia, I have used US crochet terms as they are what I am used to. 🙂

Bowl

Using grey yarn

R1: 6sc in magic ring (6sts)

R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sts)

R3: *1sc, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18sts)

R4: Through back loops only, sc 18 (18sts)

R5: Through front loops only *2sc, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (24sts)

R6: *3sc, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (30sts)

R7: *4sc, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (36sts)

R8-12: Sc 36

Fasten off with a long tail. This will be used to attach the “soup” later.

Soup

Using tan yarn

R1: 6sc in magic ring (6sts)

R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sts)

R3: *1sc, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18sts)

R4: *2sc, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (24sts)

R5: *3sc, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (30sts)

R6: *4sc, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (36sts)

Fasten off and weave in end.

Noodle

Using white yarn

Chain 125

Fasten off.

Beef

Using Brown yarn

Chain 5

R1: Sc 4, starting in second ch from hook, ch1. Turn

R2-5: Sc4, ch1. Turn

R6: Sc 4

Fasten off. Leave tail for assembly.

Mint Leaves (make 2)

(In my original version I used a leaf pattern by Ana Paula Rimoli. To make this pattern entirely my own, I’ve created my own leaf pattern)

Chain 8

Starting in the second chain from hook, sc1, dc1, dc1, tr1, dc1, dc1, sc1. Fasten off.

How to assemble the Little Bowl of Pho!

1. Attach safety eyes and embroider mouth to bowl as shown in the photograph below.

2. Attach the noodles, beef and mint to the soup as shown in the photograph below. With the noodles, stitch at random sections of the noodle to the soup to keep it from unraveling.

3. With the long tail from the bowl, attach the soup to the bowl, about 1 row from the top. Before closing the amigurumi, stuff moderately.

4. Done! Now you have your own Little Bowl of Pho! 🙂

Do you think you will crochet a Little Bowl of Pho? I’d love to see your photos if you do!  🙂

This pattern is an original pattern by Rachel of Drawn and Hooked (September 2013). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. You may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site, sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Thank you! 🙂

5 Things I’ve Learned About Amigurumi

It’s been almost six months since I started making amigurumi (for the unacquainted, Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed toys – mostly animals, but also objects) so I thought it’d be a great time to share with you 5 things I’ve learned since then. Being self taught (well, mum taught me how to crochet a chain and the rest I’ve learned from books and blogs) I’ve made an array of “mistakes” – some of which have only been corrected as recently as a week or so ago. While some of my mistakes might be unique I’m guessing that some might not be – so hopefully this post is of use to someone! 🙂

Above is a picture of two bears. The mocha coloured bear is my first real amigurumi and you may recognise him from here.  The yellow bear is an amigurumi I made during the past week. They are actually the same pattern (which you can find here on All About Ami)! I’ll be using these two to demonstrate what I have learned. 🙂

1. AMIGURUMI HAVE A “WRONG” AND “RIGHT” SIDE

See how the two bears have different textures/patterns? While Mocha Bear (let’s call him MB) is not an exact example of the “wrong” side (I’ll explain more later), Yellow Bear (let’s call him YB) is an example of what is generally considered by amigurumi enthusiasts to be the “right” side of an amigurumi. When Amigurumi are crocheted, most people (including myself) find that one side naturally curves in and the other curves out. The side that seems to most naturally curves out is considered the “wrong” side.

This is probably because the “right” side is better looking. But also, as I discovered whilst crocheting YB (my first “right” side amigurumi!), having the “right” side facing out makes the amigurumi have a nicer shape.

Whilst I guess it’s all subjective as to which bear looks “better” – YB has a more balanced, round shape to him – especially in his head.

But at the end of the day, which side you choose to use in your amigurumi is a matter of personal taste – though I’m making the switch to the “right” side from now on. 🙂

Stephanie from All About Ami was kind enough to point this out to me – you can read more about the “right” and “wrong” of Amigurumi in her post here.

2. THE INVISIBLE DECREASE

Another advantage about using the “right” side of amigurumi is that you can use the “invisible” decrease  . It took me a few tries to get it right, but when I finally did – wow. It’s a tidier method of decreasing and reduces those gaping holes that can appear with your average “miss a stitch” decrease.

To learn how to do an invisible decrease – check out (once again! 🙂 ) the All About Ami post here.

3. WORK IN ROUNDS

Before creating MB I dabbled in some simple amigurumi. The patterns were (in hindsight) not very well written, hence why I didn’t catch the amigurumi bug at that time. The patterns also left me with an odd habit – finishing off each row/round with a slip stitch before starting the next. While this may work for some patterns (I don’t dare say it’s just plain wrong – as I am still learning so much about amigurumi and may find later on slip stitching a round has a purpose), I find with amigurumi all it does is leave a strange looking “seam”.

While it’s not as obvious in the photo above, MB has a diagonal “seam” along the back of his head from when I slip stitched the end of every row. There’s nothing wrong with a “seam” but the alternative to slip stitching each round – by working in a continuous round – leaves your amigurumi seamless – giving your amigurumi a more polished look.

It also helps to give the amigurumi its smoother, rounder shape, as seen in the picture below.

4. CROCHET INTO BOTH LOOPS, NOT JUST ONE

I think this amigurumi mistake is more unique to myself than the majority. For no particular reason, I crocheted my initial amigurumis in only what is considered the “back loop”. This resulted in a finer looking textured amigurumi. The amigurumi was also softer and not as firm as the amigurumi crocheted with both loops. This is why I don’t consider MB to be an exact example of the “wrong side” of amigurumi.

I’ve discovered now that crocheting into the back loop of an amigurumi is useful for creating edges. On this bear pattern, crocheting in back loops gave definition to the pad of its foot. So really, crocheting in just the back loops is not necessarily “wrong”, but rather the technique has its time and place.

5. HOOK SIZES ARE NOT CRUCIAL

At least not in amigurumi. And at least if you’re not pedantic about matching a pattern in size and shape exactly.

These two bears were crocheted with the same size hook. Perhaps it was the odd back loop, inside out way I was crocheting or my tension has changed, but the bears differ a little in size.

Each crocheter will have their own tension. Patterns will indicate a hook size but depending on the crocheter – you may need a smaller or larger hook to match the size of the example in the pattern.

However, getting the correct hook is only crucial when you are working on a project like a garment that must be a particular size and fit. That is perhaps why I like coming back to amigurumi time and time again between (or when I need a break from) tension crucial projects. It doesn’t matter what size your amigurumi is!

**********

So, that was my run down of 5 things I have learned about Amigurumi since September! I hope it made sense and perhaps helped someone out there.

One other random thing I learned while putting together this post was how to create animated gifs. All these years I have owned a version of Photoshop that had the capabilities of creating gif images – and only have I learned to make them now! So, I leave you now, with a 360 degree view of dear Yellow Bear. 🙂

(Sorry, the gif might take a while to load depending on your internet connection!)

I think this whole creating animated gif thing might become a new “hobby” of mine!

DIY: Coldplay Inspired Necklace

 

This past weekend I got to see Coldplay live! After buying my tickets way back in May, the day had finally come! For the occasion (even though my brother said I was being “lame”) I created a little Coldplay inspired crocheted necklace to wear. And I’d love to share a tutorial now on how I made it with you!

As this was the Mylo Xyloto Tour, I let my colour scheme be inspired by the cover of the album.

Once set, I gathered my materials and began my little project!

Materials:

1. Embroidery Threads

2. A handful of stuffing

3. A chain (this used to belong to a locket I had – which unfortunately snapped. I salvaged the chain though, and it was great to give it a second life in this project) – this can be whatever length you desire.

4. A clasp (Any jewelry clasp will do. This is just what I had on hand at the time)

5. 2 X jump rings

 

Tools:

– 2mm Crochet hook

– Tapestry Needle

– Scissors

– Pliers

 

Instructions:

1. Crochet a ball out of each embroidery thread colour. The pattern (worked in rounds) follows as so..

R1: Form a magic ring with 6sc (6sts)

R2: 2sc in each sc around (12sts)

R3: *Sc1, 2sc in next sc*, repeat 6 times. (18sts)

R4-6: Sc 18

R7: *Sc1, dec1*, repeat 6 times (12sts)

(Stuff the ball with stuffing)

R8: Dec 6 times (6sts)

Fasten off with a short tail.

2. With a tapestry needle, tuck in the tails of each of the balls so that you end up with something like this.

3. Fold your chain in half and cut so that you have two pieces. For clarity, we will call the two chains A and B.

On one end of chain A, attach the clasp with a jump ring. On one end of chain B, attach a single jump ring.

4. On the non-clasp end of chain A thread a piece of embroidery thread and tie a double knot. (If you are a keen jewelery maker/prefer something a little sturdier, you may prefer to use tiger tail wire and clamps instead. I used thread as it was easier to get hold of at the time).

5. Thread each of the crocheted balls onto the thread. After this, attach the thread to the non-jump ring end of chain B.

6. Tuck in the loose threads.

7. And it’s done. Go see Coldplay! 😉

I hope you like my first attempt at writing/putting together a tutorial! Please only use this project for personal use – IT IS NOT to be sold or reproduced for profit.

To end this post, here I thought I’d also share a few shots I took at the concert (with my humble point and shoot camera). 🙂

My friend and I with our Xylobands. They were controlled by radio waves and lit up in sync with Coldplay’s performance. Amazing.

And Coldplay. With Confetti. Lasers. Lights. FIREWORKS (not in this picture though!). I don’t think I’ll ever go to another concert that will beat this one for atmosphere. Amazing. Just amazing.